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Shoestring Spending

Tuna Taste Test Tells Tale

Posted November 18, 2008

Canned tuna has always been one of our favorite comfort foods. But for years, The Whiner has hidden this preference, intimidated as we have been by our tuna-steak-encrusted-with-green-peppercorn-eating pals.

No more. We’re overjoyed to report that there are two reasons why canned tuna has become the ingredient du jour. The first, of course, is the state of the economy. Canned tuna is usually — not always, but usually — much cheaper than the fresh alternative and it lends itself to a variety of low-cost lunches and dinners. Meanwhile, unless you’re choosing white albacore, it turns out to also be lower in mercury content, which makes it a more healthful choice.

Since this is one curve that The Whiner is finally way out in front on, we have thrown ourselves into a tuna taste test of epic proportions. (Although we have written about the advantages of limiting your choices when comparison-shopping, we felt compelled to try out every single can of tuna that we could get our hot little hands on. Plus some jars too.) Our goal: To identify the best-tasting, most affordable tunas for sale in our local markets. And to warn you away from some really nasty ones.

Let’s start with the ones that we really loathed, because this will not only save you some money, it will help you understand what we’re looking for in a great can of tuna. And what we absolutely won’t tolerate, which generally falls into two categories: Mushiness and additives.

So, for example, we’d steer clear of Bumble Bee Chunk Light Tuna in Water ($1.49, 6 oz.). Although we’re cheap, we’d never come back to a tuna that’s practically oatmeal-like in its consistency. And, we’re put off, to put it mildly, by the addition of vegetable broth (what’s that about?) to a salty water base. We rated this one: Poor.

We also ranked StarKist Albacore White Tuna (3 oz. pouch, $2.09) in the to-be-avoided category. Although the flakes weren’t mushy (in fact, they were cardboard-like in their chewiness), the tuna was processed in water, vegetable broth, salt and something called pyrophosphate. It had a strong taste, yes, but this certainly didn’t resemble tuna.

Let’s move next to some tunas that received our “Good” rating. They’re not our favorites, but they’re certainly worth considering next time you’re comparison-shopping. Progresso Solid Light Tuna in Olive Oil ($2.89, 6 oz.) took us by surprise. This yellowfin tuna has a nice smell, firm texture and a clean taste that’s more neutral than we ourselves prefer — but that price is great and some people like neutral. FYI, it’s labeled “dolphin safe.”

Whole Foods has a house brand that’s also worth considering; we love the price, although the taste isn’t right for us. Whole Foods’ 365 Everyday Value Chunk Light Tongol Tuna ($1.19, 6 oz.), packed in salted spring water, has a nice flaky texture. Although the taste is somewhat bland, this worked well in a tuna melt and other dishes with stronger-flavored ingredients. It’s also dolphin-safe.

Our panel of taste-testers practically came to blows over American Tuna’s White Albacore Tuna ($4.99, 6 oz.). The price is higher, which is no damn good, but the can boasts about various environmentally-friendly practices that certainly sound appealing. This tuna is “wild albacore,” “pole caught,” “packed in all-natural fish oil” and there’s a connection with something called the Marine Stewardship Council. It’s also got a great appearance in the can — not flaky, but it does look like the ‘real thing.’ One taster gave it a “good” rating. Another put it in the “poor” category, because of a strong fishy aftertaste and the higher mercury content (which is true, of course, of any white albacore product).

Now for the “Very Good” brands, which we are happy to report really do combine great taste with affordable prices. There’s always a can of Genova Tonno ($2.19, 5 oz.) in The Whiner’s kitchen and this taste test has convinced us that it deserves to be there. This yellowfin tuna, packed in olive oil, is “wild caught from deep waters” (no, we don’t know why that matters, but we’re committed to giving you a full description). It’s also got a good, relatively mild taste and nice consistency. Our only complaint is that there’s a mild fish odor, which we tend to eliminate by rinsing the fish before adding it to a dish.

During the course of our taste test, we also discovered another top-quality, affordable tuna: Oro di Sicilia ($3.69, 5.5 oz.) This yellowfin tuna, hand-packed in extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, had a strong but appealing tuna taste. The olive oil was terrific too, so this is one tuna that we would never rinse or drain before using. The only downside: Unlike many of the other brands in the taste test, this tuna is tough to find.

One might ask, are there any truly great canned (or jarred) tunas out there? The answer is yes. But they’re budget-busters that just aren’t worth the money (since they cost as much, or more, than fresh tuna, which defeats the whole EconoSavvy purpose of turning to tuna).

If you’ve money to burn, though, here are some exceptional brands to keep an eye out for: Flott Ventresca di Tonno (9.99, 4.5 oz.), a superb tuna belly, packed in pure olive oil; Zoe Diva Select Ventresca ($11.99, 4 oz.), a yellowfin light tuna in olive oil, dolphin-safe, with an in-can presentation that can only be described as gorgeous; Ortiz Bonito Del Norte ($10.99, 7.8 oz), the only white tuna that our entire team enjoyed, with just one problem: it’s difficult to remove from its glass jar.

The Whiner wants to know: Are you a tuna fan? Any favorite brands, or cost-effective meal ideas?


Reader Comments

  1. Johanna

    Tuna is one of the cost-effective measures I have been taking to task lately. Without a doubt the Whole Foods brand is a personal fave! A cheap meal idea these days for me has been the good ‘ol tuna and noodles. You can’t beat it!

    16 oz pkg. noodles
    2 cans tuna
    1/2 c. mayonnaise
    ¼ cup diced onion
    1 or 2 boiled eggs chopped

    Boil noodles until tender. Drain and place in bowl. Drain tuna. Flake tuna into the noodles and stir. Add diced onion, eggs, and mayonnaise. Stir lightly just to mix the ingredients. This one works well both as a hot dish or cold.

  2. Michelle Belle

    This is EPIC indeed whiner. I usually stick with the Starkist tuna, but will def. do a little taste testing with these other brands. It looks like someone has already has added a recipe, so I thought I might as well put in my two cents. Here is a recipe for Tuna Macaroni Salad!!

    Prep Time: 15 MIN
    Cook Time: 8 TO 10 MIN

    4 Servings, about 1-1/2 cups each
    Elbow macaroni, uncooked 1 cup
    Canned tuna, water-pack, drained 2 6-ounce cans
    Eggs, hard cooked, finely diced 4
    Celery, chopped 1/4 cup
    Carrots grated 3/4 cup
    Salad dressing, mayonnaise-type 1/2 cup
    Onion, minced 2 tablespoons
    Pepper 1/4 teaspoon

    -Place water in large saucepan and bring to boil. Add macaroni and cook until tender, about 6 to 8 minutes. Drain.

    -Combine macaroni, tuna, eggs, celery, and carrots in a large bowl.

    -Stir together salad dressing, onion, and pepper. Spoon dressing over salad; toss until evenly combined.

    -Chill until ready to serve.

  3. Mr. Coat Tails

    That mac salad sounds delicious Michelle, I will have to give it a try. I love me a good yellowfin tuna-especially the Progresso brand. If any of you others out there have any good recipes-PLEASE SHARE

  4. Holly Clark

    No recipe, but I just wanted to say that I bought the Genovo Tuna and had it with my lunch. Great suggestion. I like the price too. I had it on a sandwich, but in the future will give it a try with salade nicoise. Thanks.

  5. Tuna Lover

    Lovin’ this-I put tuna in just about everything I make. I’m always worried about mercury levels, I know, so I always purchase Genova Tonno. It isn’t too cheap and it doesn’t break the bank either. I actually just had some tonight for dinner!

  6. Maggie Mae

    My family likes to put together a nice Tuna casserole. I’m not going to lie… it’s a big hit with everyone. One of my favorite recipes is for Bow Tie Tuna Florentine.

    * 1 (8 ounce) package farfalle (bow tie) pasta
    * 1 tablespoon margarine
    * 1 1/4 cups milk
    * 1 (1.2 ounce) package creamy pesto sauce mix
    * 2 cups fresh spinach, rinsed and thinly sliced
    * 1/2 cup sliced fresh mushrooms
    * 3 (6 ounce) cans tuna, drained
    * 3 roma (plum) tomatoes, chopped

    * add to recipe box Add to Recipe Box
    My folders:
    * add to shopping list Add to Shopping List
    * add a personal note Add a Personal Note

    DIRECTIONS

    -Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until al dente; drain.
    -In a large saucepan, melt the margarine over medium-high heat. Add milk and pesto sauce mix; bring to a boil stirring constantly with a wire whisk until well blended and boiling. Reduce heat and add spinach and mushrooms. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.
    -Add cooked pasta, tuna and tomatoes, stirring gently to coat. Cook 3 to 5 minutes until thoroughly heated.

  7. Brian From Phoenix

    Who needs Tuna when you have Chicken!

  8. Debbie

    I picked up some Oro di Sicilia tuna at the grocer today. Yummy, I had it for dinner! I recommend it to everyone. BTW i love the “wild caught from deep waters” description for th Genova Tonno tuna. LOL

  9. CMP

    One of my favorite recipes for tuna is Tonnato sauce. The Italians eat it with grilled meat, but at our house we like to put it on pasta and eat it with crusty bread and a simple green salad. I don’t measure my ingredients, so do everything to taste:

    In a food processor, whiz up a can of tuna in olive oil (don’t use tuna packed in water, it stays grainy). Add a little mayo (maybe 1/4 cup), lemon juice, fresh black pepper, chopped garlic,and more olive oil. You want a nice creamy consistency, so leave the blender on until you get that creaminess.
    Remove to a bowl and add capers (chopped up if they’re those giant ones), chopped fresh parsley, and salt to taste. That’s it! You can put it on hot pasta, or combine with cooked pasta in a large saute pan, with a little of the pasta water, and heat for only a minute or so. This is one of my favorite dinners in the whole world. For a little variation you can add some peas.

  10. old teacher

    Mmm, love the Genova, too. Tuna in oil’s tastier than in water, no matter the brand–and calorie content differs little though of course fat is an issue for so many of us! Doesn’t Cento can a tuna? NOW–time to taste-test sardines. We get a brand from Morocco called Alshark at our Lebanese market.

  11. Hanna

    First visit to the site, but I love these pieces about shoestring spending and taste tests. Tuna is great and ur right – it’s a great deal. I couldn’t believe it when I read someplace or other that people are buying spam these days. spam. That’s pure crap. I’d rather open a can of tuna anyday.

  12. krimpet

    Be careful, although affordable, all tuna is very high in mercury which can be dangerous for pregnant women, kids an even adults in sufficient quantities. Here is an article form Consumer Reports:

    http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/babies-kids/child-safety/food/mercury-in-tuna/tuna-safety/overview/0607_tuna_ov.htm

    In addition to being high in mercury, bluefin tuna, the kind in sushi is woefully overfished. Some studies indicate ocean populations are at 10% of normal levels. Personally, I love tuna, but I’ve come to the conclusion that it is best to avoid it.

  13. Joan

    It’s hard to believe that eating Tuna once or twice a week is a bad thing. Indeed, FDA says that if you aren’t pregnant, it’s fine to do so: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/admehg3.html.

    It’s helpful that the safer tuna is also less expensive. I grew up eating tuna casserole once a week, and am ready to try some of the wonderful recipes listed.

  14. R Berkman

    Unless you know whether your tuna has been caught wild by longline, you should not be eating it under any circumstances: it is an endangered species that is teetering on commercial extinction. Check the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s “Seafood Selector” for more information.

  15. Kit Peres

    Have you tried Kirkland (Costco house brand) white albacore tuna in water? It is the very best tuna i have ever had in my 52 years…and a bargain, too. For locations: http://www.costco.com/

  16. Sarah

    Canned Tuna Recipe:

    Open 1 can of tuna packed in water. Drain water. Leave tuna in the can. Drizzle a little olive oil on top. Squirt in some lemon squeeze. Sprinkle with lemon pepper. Eat directly out of can. Tasty, healthy, and only one fork to wash.

  17. Betsy

    I also love Tuna! During my highschool days, BumbleBee Seafoods in Astoria, Oregon was ‘the’ place to work. This was late 60’s and I learned alot about packing tuna.

    My favorite brand is Kirkland Solid White Albacore, packaged by BumbleBee Seafoods and sold under the Kirkland brand by Costco. BumbleBee sells a Fancy Pack Solid White Albacore that matches Kirkland but cost a whole lot more.

    Chicken of the Sea Solid Albacore is ‘crap’,,,, when you open a can of tuna that has the grated pieces of meat, this is not solid albacore but instead the grated pieces of tuna that comes from scraping the solid loin (which includes pieces of the darker meat & cooked blood). Yuck,,,,,

    Don’t buy cheap tuna ever,,,, those cheap grate brands include stuff we’d put into the ‘cat food’ area. BumbleBee Seafood used to sell canned Figaro Tuna Cat Food, that’s where all the dark center blood of each loin went. Then we’d scrape the loin into another pan only putting the solid loin on the moving belt to be sliced and packaged as ‘good tuna’.

    Any can of Tuna that includes small pieces and not solid sliced of tuna is ‘crap’,,,,, so be picky when purchasing tuna, don’t buy cheap!

  18. ZedOfTheIslands

    When I am on one of my frequent assignments to one or another of the hot, sandy places filled with people that don’t like me, if the locals speak (or spoke) French I can usually find a supply of Saupiquet Thon au Natural, the most popular canned tuna in France. This is albacore, but not the hard white stuff of the USA – it is pink and tender with a wonderful “fresh” tuna flavor, no fishiness. I mix it with olive oil (or local equivalent), chopped vegetables, and herbs, three meals a day. It’s my favorite survival food.

  19. Nancy

    Tuna Sauce with tomatoes & garlic (& parsley)
    Absolutely the best thing to do with canned (we like Genovo also) tuna:
    Olive oil (4 tblspns), garlic (up to you), small can of Italian plum tomatoes, tuna, salt, pepper, pasta, parsley. Start cooking the pasta.
    Heat the garlic in the oil until it turns pale gold. Add cut-up tomatoes, simmer until oil separates from tomatoes (this could take 25 minutes – we usually can’t wait this long). Add drained tuna, heat through, add salt & pepper, sprinkle with parsley, toss with (already cooked!) pasta.
    Or put it on Italian bread. Or rice. Or whatever. We eat this whenever we can’t think of what to make for dinner – hope you like it, too!

  20. Moira

    Always was a canned tuna fan, but found it hard to get used to dryness of water-packed (apparently I had liked the oil). However, like the writer, I found the oatmeal-y brand (BumbleBee?)turned me off canned tuna for months. And I do like the versatility of the canned along with an occasional tuna steak. Tuna tettrazine rocks, but so does the souffle my grandmother made with tuna and crushed saltines…

  21. Kate

    Please consider other options before choosing tuna. We can all stop eating them now or be forced to stop 5 years down the road when they are pretty much extinct and no longer economically feasible to fish. Here’s just one article: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/7040011.stm

    Many people would feel much worse about eating an endangered polar bear than an endangered fish, but really the environmental impact of overfishing should also concern everyone. Climate change is not limited to land, but the seas as well.

    I recommend dried beans as an alternative. A whole pound of dried chick peas costs about the same as a tiny can of tuna, and can be used in pretty much the same way: hummus sandwiches, pasta salads, etc. As far as health goes, beans are also high in protein with the added benefit of fiber!

  22. Jim

    Fascinating. The whiner should move south of the Mason Dixon line. The prices you mention are outrageous! I never pay more than 79 cents for a can (or 98 cents for the pouch) of light tuna at Publix or Walmart, but we’re talking the basic Starkist here, not some of the more exotic brands you mention. Anyway, thanks for the insight. You’ve put me in the mood for a tuna melt.

  23. Moki

    Canned tuna is regarded as a delicacy in much of Europe and elsewhere. Is it “as good as” fresh tuna? It’s not about which is better. They’re two completely different products, even though they originate as the same fish. I live where fresh tuna is affordable (Hawaii). I love fresh tuna, especially grilled. I make tuna salad for sandwiches out of both cold leftover grilled fresh tuna and canned, depending on what I have. They’re both great food, but different. In parts of France, Spain and Italy, there are all kinds of recipes for sauces made with canned tuna. Used on pastas, grilled meats, veggies, etc. Most of these sauces are all but unknown in America. Start googling. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, look around for locally produced canned (and sometimes jarred) tuna. A lot of it is, quality-wise, right up there with the expensive stuff from Italy.

  24. carmen laube

    We always keep hard-boiled eggs and tuna salad in the fridge. Our best method for tuna salad was found on the web. Add whatever you wish, but mix and mix, and then mix some more. We now do it in the mixer stand, which results in a totally delish product. In our house, whatever we wish is some mayonnaise, mustard, horseradish, one hard-boiled egg per can of tuna (Sale Brand from BJs or Costco, thanks much)and salt and pepper, all measurements to taste. Mix, mix, mix, and you’ll think it came from the best deli in the world.

  25. njslattery

    OK, I get the point on cheap. But if you buy a really good jarred Italian tuna (there are several brands), even if it is expensive on its own, you can make a great gourmet Tuna Nicoise Salad (use the tuna oil in the dressing!) for two for about $10 bucks that will wow a date or friend, and make you feel not so cheap. A reasonable rose and some nice music and a candle, and you will have saved about $100 bucks off the “going out” price.

  26. Catherine Stiles

    Kirkland white albacore tuna from Costco. Water packed. Delicious. Can’t remember the price exactly, but it’s cheap. I think about $10 for an 8 pack of the small cans.
    Never have to pick out any “brown stuff” out of it.

  27. The Whiner

    Everyone, thanks for these great suggestions. Keep em coming. In the meantime, we’d like to recommend a great dish we made over the weekend with a can of the Genova tuna, some toasted leftover baguette, sliced radishes and red onions, and a can of chick peas. Add a little additional olive oil and kosher salt if you like. Terrific.

  28. Bill Carvalho

    It is difficult to miss an important point in you taste testing: tuna with olive oil is the prefered taste.
    My family (Portuguese fish fanatics) canned our own albacore in mason jars as long as I can remember. In the last 10 years I have exported millions of pounds of albacore from Oregon to Spain for use in those olive-oil-added products. I challenge anyone to try our domestic brand of albacore: Wild Planet with cold-pressed olive oil added AFTER opening. Why eat tuna with olive oil that is of low grade and has been boiled for 70 minutes during the cook process!
    As the comments posted: West Coast troll-caught albacore is a “Best Choice” for sustainability on MBA Seafood Watch and is less than half the mercury content of national brands.
    Don’t hesitate to enjoy one of earth’s greatest super-foods!

  29. Arthur Schwartz

    I am a long-time devotee of canned tuna, and something of a food expert — my website is called thefoodmaven.com. I couldn’t agree more with these tasting results. I buy Genova tuna for its good quality and great price — I pay only $1.88 a can! I buy Flott (or Callipo from Calabria) when I want to splurge a little.

  30. Nikki

    For an unusual combination that stretches one can of tuna into an appetizer for 4 or dinner for 2 try adding fresh diced apple (sour ones like granny smith or crispy sweet ones like gala or fuji’s work best. Mealy apples should be avoided here.)

    So, for an appetizer served on a bed of greens:

    1 can of tuna
    1/2 large apple in 1/2 inch dice
    1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese
    1 stick celery sliced some fancy, sexy-looking way, like on a bias or houndstooth
    red or white onion to taste
    commercial mayonaise to taste
    Salt and pepper to taste
    1/2 tsp lemon juice
    (If you have capers laying around, here’s a good place to put about 1 Tbsp of them)

    If you don’t like mayonaise, just use nice olive oil to moisten the vegetables.

    Or this same salad makes 2 fat or 4 skinny sandwiches. If you have want to grill, toast or broil your sandwich, do. The cheese makes them nice and melty.

  31. Elyse Friedman

    This is a great favorite of mine. The amounts I specify below are just estimates. You can emphasize the ingredients you like best. And you can include other vegetables too.

    Italian Tuna and White Bean Salad

    Mix together:

    1 can of Italian tuna packed in olive oil,NOT drained
    1 can of white cannellini beans, drained
    1 red bell pepper, diced
    1 cucumber, diced
    1 or 2 plum tomatoes, diced
    a handful of Italian flat-leafed parsley, chopped
    the juice of one lemon
    freshly ground black pepper